MILLESIME 2019 : De jolis vins blancs et rouges en très faible quantité
Les vignes ont froid début avril et sont sensibilisées par les gelées malgré le développement des protections anti-gel.
Mai et juin connaissent de très grands écarts de températures avec une période froide, la première quinzaine de juin ; période pendant laquelle la vigne est en pleine floraison, ce qui a pour effet de provoquer une très forte coulure de la fleur particulièrement sur Chardonnay.
Juillet et août sont chauds et très secs, la véraison s’enclenche mi-août.
Avec un manque important d’eau, les raisins grossissent peu (déficit en eau mesuré entre le 1er janvier et fin juillet : - 114 mm).
A la faveur de conditions climatiques exceptionnelles, les dates de vendanges sont avancées d’une dizaine de jours pour commencer vers le 7-8 septembre au lieu du 17-18 (dates estimées à fin de floraison).
2019 est un millésime marqué par une faible production avec des raisins exceptionnellement sains, à maturité et un équilibre sucres / acidité parfait.
Musician, comedian,epicurean......that’s me : I like to learn new things, I like meeting people, I like work well done!
When I first arrived in this magnificent region, I was struck by 3 features in particular: the sense of solidarity, friendship and true burgundian hospitality! For instance, I was very quickly drawn into the warm and welcoming Confrérie de Saint-Denis fellowship and soon after became a member of the all-female jury for the “Féminalises” contest.
Burgundy, wine, music.....3 loves inseparable from my female existence......Simone Weil, the philosopher, once said “I maintain that my condition as a woman should be recognized for its difference and in no way should there be an obligation to adapt oneself to the masculine order of life”.
Looking back to the time when I first discovered wine, I cannot help comparing this to my early stages in playing the cello: the same sensations revealed in a few seconds: a glass of white wine reflecting the sun or a glass of ruby red, the delicate feeling of the wine on the palate and its gradual warmth as it works its way freely like music through the body. Life was ahead of me: I spent hours with my musical instrument so as to gain artistical excellence – just like the toil involved in winemaking: sheer hard work to achieve the state of the art.
I dare to say that wine for me is a source of inspiration for my thoughts and dreams! As for my dear Brahms on his deathbed, when the time comes I will almost certainly ask for a glass of white wine and will exclaim when finished “that was good!” – those were his last words! We must not forget that Marie Jaëll – great composer and friend of Liszt – was also a lover of burgundy wines!
It is largely because of our deep interests – or perhaps simply the beauty of life -- that we wish to show off our feminine talent, our work and our unique versatility of mind.
Lets move forward together, all with a single objective and oblivious to what characterizes men and women: live our lives to the full!
Mona Lou Parmentier
As generations follow on.....
Like so many things today even the manner wine is consumed is influenced by changes in the way of life; Burgundy is no exception and the upcoming generation of both young men and women winemakers is the source of a real festival for the tastebuds, such is the range and the quality of the red and white wines produced.
What a pleasure and what better way of expressing the skills of those men and women who dedicate their lives – with so much passion and talent - to cultivating this blessed land with its multitude of plots, or climats.
What a pleasure and what better way to serve and satisfy and even surprise a customer: there is something for everybody and every budget, whatever the method of upbringing of the wine – that is the legacy of successive generations to satisfy our thirst (in moderation of course) and leave us gasping with enjoyment!
As generations follow on, the cellar is no longer big enough! Sebastien the sommelier is in a tizzy and the chef Pras is in a quandary to select the right wine to accompany his recipes! This may be a downside but what a formidable challenge in the search for gustatory sensation which also depends on vintage.
Forget for a moment warnings relating to alcohol and health and focus on what is so precious and what we derive from it and which keeps us in harmony with rural activity.
Lets try and see if the wine is good........and we can go on forever!
the host of Lameloise, Chagny.
Burgundy : a land blessed by the gods...
And never has this been so true as for this year!
At last, after several years when crops were severely hit by frost and hailstorms we have been blessed with both quantity and quality - not only in Chablis but everywhere in Burgundy.
Taking the Yonne region as just one example: right from the start it appeared that 2018 would be in advance – in fact, the earliest in the the last ten years – with the vines first blooming at the beginning of June in spite of the wet and stormy conditions.
We were kept busy in the fields during the Spring and early Summer until the hot weather and when drought set in; it was feared that growth would be impaired but it was observed with relief that the degree of sunlight had not effected development of the vine.
When the grapes started to be processed in the press, it was a pleasant surprise for all to see that the yield was good and the concentration high; on tasting during fermentation of the wine it is already evident that the 2018 vintage will be exceptional - rich, elegant and delicate.
We still have in mind those memorable vintages of 1982 and more recently 1990!
Julie et Nathalie FEVRE – Œnologues et vigneronnes à Fontenay-près-CHABLIS
Vigne de « La Preuse » - Chablis Grand Cru
AFRAID OF THE DARK (an ode to the Pinot Noir)
I am not recognized as being a person who believes in those wines especially made, standardized in colour and concentration to appeal to a broad market – in fact, I cannot stand wines supposed to be adapted to the taste of today! And this applies to white wines as well as reds.
Lets take red wines: I don’t mind if I am described as being desperate in search of the ideal, a dream, perhaps , a need, certainly – and this need has a colour: it is red but not any shade of red, I mean shades of red such as scarlet, alizarin, aniline, poppy etc.
I am totally adverse to a red wine which is black in colour and even more so towards the pinot noir which has a black hue, like ink: my immediate reaction is to avoid that sort of wine.
This red colour which I have studied, admired, inhaled and almost touched has a name: PINOT NOIR.
This name signifies universal acclaim and demand and I believe it is unrivalled; one can always find a reason not to appreciate it when, for example, it may seem too pale or lacking in substance but it could only be an illusion.
There are everywhere some famous domains, kings in their region and who make their wine solely to satisfy the “modern world” (too dark in colour, overpowering in aroma and taste, sometimes sweet! – yes, sweet!).
My principle is to try and differentiate between what is acceptable and what should be rejected and whatever the case, never be influenced.
Alain Ducasse entreprise
Executive wine director