Burgundy : a land blessed by the gods...
Burgundy : a land blessed by the gods...
And never has this been so true as for this year!
At last, after several years when crops were severely hit by frost and hailstorms we have been blessed with both quantity and quality - not only in Chablis but everywhere in Burgundy.
Taking the Yonne region as just one example: right from the start it appeared that 2018 would be in advance – in fact, the earliest in the the last ten years – with the vines first blooming at the beginning of June in spite of the wet and stormy conditions.
We were kept busy in the fields during the Spring and early Summer until the hot weather and when drought set in; it was feared that growth would be impaired but it was observed with relief that the degree of sunlight had not effected development of the vine.
When the grapes started to be processed in the press, it was a pleasant surprise for all to see that the yield was good and the concentration high; on tasting during fermentation of the wine it is already evident that the 2018 vintage will be exceptional - rich, elegant and delicate.
We still have in mind those memorable vintages of 1982 and more recently 1990!
Julie et Nathalie FEVRE – Œnologues et vigneronnes à Fontenay-près-CHABLIS
Vigne de « La Preuse » - Chablis Grand Cru
AFRAID OF THE DARK (an ode to the Pinot Noir)
AFRAID OF THE DARK (an ode to the Pinot Noir)
I am not recognized as being a person who believes in those wines especially made, standardized in colour and concentration to appeal to a broad market – in fact, I cannot stand wines supposed to be adapted to the taste of today! And this applies to white wines as well as reds.
Lets take red wines: I don’t mind if I am described as being desperate in search of the ideal, a dream, perhaps , a need, certainly – and this need has a colour: it is red but not any shade of red, I mean shades of red such as scarlet, alizarin, aniline, poppy etc.
I am totally adverse to a red wine which is black in colour and even more so towards the pinot noir which has a black hue, like ink: my immediate reaction is to avoid that sort of wine.
This red colour which I have studied, admired, inhaled and almost touched has a name: PINOT NOIR.
This name signifies universal acclaim and demand and I believe it is unrivalled; one can always find a reason not to appreciate it when, for example, it may seem too pale or lacking in substance but it could only be an illusion.
There are everywhere some famous domains, kings in their region and who make their wine solely to satisfy the “modern world” (too dark in colour, overpowering in aroma and taste, sometimes sweet! – yes, sweet!).
My principle is to try and differentiate between what is acceptable and what should be rejected and whatever the case, never be influenced.
Gérard Margeon
Alain Ducasse entreprise
Executive wine director
A superb and stimulating General Meeting!
A superb and stimulating General Meeting!
The 10 businesswomen in wine associations have been integrated in a national federation known as the “Cercle des Femmes de Vin” established in 2009 by, among others, Marie Laurence Saladin (Rhone valley), Chantal Pégase (Beaujolais) and Anne Parent (everyone knows her region…!)
The statutes of the Cercle stipulate that a General Meeting should be held annually and it was agreed that this would be hosted by a different region every year.
This year, it was the turn of the members from the Languedoc-Roussillon region – and did they welcome us proudly! We started on the Friday evening at the Château Beaubois in the Gard and on Saturday, fine weather and a great event consisting in a tasting session of wines from the 18 members of the Languedoc-Roussillon region – a full selection, varied and rich, giving justice to our lady hosts: strongwilled, emotional, beautiful, humorous…..as we like to be!
As there is no wine without the vine and the cellar, we strolled through the Montpeyrroux estate and then visited two domains, La reserve d’O and Jasse Castel…….epic!
On Sunday morning, down to business: the General Meeting for the president’s report, the treasurer’s statement – both unanimously approved – and several speeches.
Highlights of certain regional activities were described, for example: the work carried out by the Dames de Coeur (Queens of hearts association in the Loire region);, education and communication for the young by the SO Femmes (association in the South-west) ; solidarity between members (the case of Fabienne whose crop was entirely destroyed by hail and members donated a quantity of wine to the equivalent of 8000 bottles as compensation); charity work in Provence in the form of meals… etc.
This is the essence of businesswomen in wine: keep the profession alive, uphold our skill and solidarity among all – values which we share and which guide us in our activity within the Femmes et vins de Bourgogne (Businesswomen in Burgundy wine association).
Sophie CINIER
Retire
For a woman winegrower, to retire from a working life is rather like leaving loved ones : the vines, the cellar so familiar, the vats so often cleaned, the casks with their characteristic odor – but there is also pride and satisfaction in handing over the keys to ones’ children…
It’s a matter of having confidence in their ability even though it is hard not to think deep down, “I just hope they won’t do something silly”!
For myself it is to be like starting a second life: a new house, a different region and a new venture - a small business selling wine and which will allow me to stay in contact with my friends from the Femmes et Vins de Bourgogne association and promote their wines in my new world!
I have never considered retirement as a form of relief, nor a dream nor an obligation but as a an opportunity to pass on to my children, everything I have learnt and built up so that my estate, Domaine des Malandes, maintains its reputation for good Chablis wine.
Good health to you all!
Lyne Marchive
